Art Comes First (ACF), a creative collective dedicated to celebrating Black heritage, reimagined the classic varsity jacket for their Black Ivy Aesthetics collection. To bring their ambitious vision to life, they needed a partner who understood both artistry and technical innovation.
Art Comes First (ACF), founded by visionaries Sam Lambert and Shaka Maidoh, has always stood for creative disruption and the celebration of Black identity through style. For their Black Ivy Aesthetics collection, debuted during September 2025 New York Fashion Week (NYFW), ACF reimagined the classic varsity jacket as a bold statement of heritage and modernity.
To bring this ambitious vision to life, they partnered with Avery Dennison, whose expertise in materials science, intricate detailing, and bespoke embellishments helped transform their ideas into a high-quality, iconic piece that blends rich storytelling with contemporary style. Together, they proved how tradition and innovation can merge to create something truly extraordinary.
The Challenge: Honoring the Past, Creating the Future
For this debut, Art Comes First set out to celebrate Black creatives who redefined culture, merging British tailoring with the energy of American style. It serves as both a tribute and a bridge—a conversation between continents.
Presented for the first time during New York Fashion Week, and following successful showcases in Paris and London, this capsule marks a symbolic chapter following the brand's move to the U.S. The collection reimagines the varsity jacket, drawing inspiration from corporate stripe shirts, workwear, and classic varsity aesthetics. It experiments with materials like cotton drill, satin, and wool to create a fresh take on timeless designs, offering something bold and innovative for today's audience.
Every detail of the collection had to tell an authentic story, capturing the essence of Black Ivy style while feeling modern and fresh. “Inspired by the mid-century Black Ivy movement when icons like Miles Davis and James Baldwin redefined Ivy League style as an act of pride and rebellion, this capsule translates that same spirit into fabric and form. Each piece merges Savile Row tailoring with varsity pieces, cardigans, and corporate stripes all finished with bespoke patches and trims crafted with Avery Dennison, a silent instrument carrying our story through every stitch and label,” said Shaka Maidoh, co-founder of Art Comes First.
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The Solution: A Partnership in Detail
Avery Dennison understood that blending heritage with innovation was key. This powerful partnership, rooted in a mutual dedication to quality and design, allowed the collection to perfectly encapsulate the spirit of Black Ivy style. Our solution involved:
Close Collaboration: We worked side-by-side with the ACF team, leveraging our expertise in premium materials and advanced manufacturing.
Custom Craftsmanship: For the varsity jacket, we meticulously crafted custom chenille embroidery patches to bring the collection s story to life. Chenille, a classic embroidery technique, uses looped threads to create a soft, tufted effect that looks and feels great. While perfect for vintage-inspired looks, chenille can also be modernized by using unique ground materials and threads. Additionally, we created custom Direct Embroidery Replacement (DER) patches for their ties, ensuring every detail of the collection reflected their vision.
Premium Materials: These thoughtful details, combined with high-quality fabrics, created woven patches that honored the past while embracing the future.
The Result: An Icon Reimagined
The finished collection stands as proof that innovation and heritage can coexist. ACF and Avery Dennison have shown what's possible when partners work with conviction and respect for where they come from and where they want to go. The varsity jacket, now reimagined, represents a compelling mix of tradition, self-expression, and modern craftsmanship.
Ready to bring your vision to life? Contact Avery Dennison today, and let's make possibilities a reality together.
Partnership Highlights
100+
Hours of collaborative design
3
Weeks of streamlined production turnaround, transforming designs into finished products
13
Bespoke patches crafted with a unique mix of finishing technique's
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